Prefab Wooden Homes: The Ultimate HOW-TO Guide

Prefab wooden homes are NOT for those who look for cheap or temporary solutions.
Today, prefabrication is the most advanced way to build a house and many luxurious homes are built with this system.

This Guide will tell you everything you need to know to start your journey into the world of prefab homes...

It used to be that prefabrication was the fix to the housing problem of the “lower class”. Today the situation is very different. 

Factory production of houses has gone a long way and we can now benefit from different kind of manufacturing technologies and different types of construction. This has completely changed the way we must look at prefab wooden houses.

This article explains important aspects you should know before attempting to buy a prefab home, including:

• Quality / Energy / Sustainability;
• types of houses;
• types of construction;
• what it consists of;
• how can you build one;
• how you get started to get one.

WARNING: the article is pretty long and it does cover most of the things you need to know to get started...
...so buckle up, get a cup of coffee (or tea?) and let's get go with it!

1. Quality, Energy, Sustainability

Despite the level of technology and the high-quality that the Industry can deliver, you can manage to screw this up and buy a crappy house.
This is why we are addressing the Quality issue upfront.

1.1. Quality

Factory prefabrication happens in a closed space and under strict control.
Factory prefabrication follows a repetitive set of procedures that are optimized to deliver products in the shortest time possible (hence at the best price) and with the highest quality attainable. Factories are really good at this. 

Factory manufacturing is proven to be the most cost-effective and quality-effective way to do things.

1.2. Energy Performance

This aspect used to be wildly overlooked when building a house.
In part, this is due to the overwhelming complexity of the topic (even some of the Top Professionals still don’t get it) and in part due to the fact that building an energy-sucking building is cheaper than building a good one.

Modern materials and construction processes make it easier to reach outstanding energy performances at a reasonable price. When building with wood, energy performance comes built in.

Yes, building with wood is more energy efficient than building in bricks or concrete.

1.3. Sustainability

In theory, a wooden house can be 100% recyclable and 100% sustainable.
In practice, reaching 100% brings little or no benefit while it increases costs considerably.

2. The Type of House

When planning to build a new home for your family, choosing the right type of house is the first step you have to do.
Nobody can pick the right type for you, the choice is entirely personal and based on your needs, wants, habits, taste and financial capabilities.

The best way to begin choosing the type of house is asking help to an Architect.

NOTE: if you are going to build a house, sooner or later you are going to need an Architect. It is highly recommendable involving a competent Architect from day one. This will save you headaches, time and money.

Picking one type of house might set certain limitations on what you can do and what you cannot. Limits are given by measurements and performance figures set by local regulations and, in certain cases, by transport issues.

These are the most common types of houses:

• villas or single-family detached houses;
• pair-houses or row houses;
• tiny houses
• micro houses.

2.1. Villas

This is the most luxurious type of prefab house. Even in the form of a single-family house, building a custom-made home of this type is a statement of independence, expressing your own personality through your wishes and decisions.

2.2. Pair or row-houses

Best in class for Energy efficiency, this type of house will compromise a bit on your architectural freedom but it surely is a great choice, especially if it is your first house.

2.3. Cabins

This type of solution is the most common choice for a second or holiday house.
Cabins are generally in the size 60-150 square meters and they have less strict energy requirements than residential houses meant for all-year usage.
Cabins are quite traditional and minimalistic in style.

2.4. Tiny houses

2.5. Micro houses

When money or available land is a concern, one has to go small. There is no shame in that and many are now building houses that fit in a tiny garden.
Do not be fooled by the micro size (less than 20 square meters)... micro houses are not garden sheds! They are properly insulated and equipped with everything one needs to carry on a good life.

3. The Type of Construction

Houses can be manufactured in a factory to a different degree of prefabrication.
As a rule of thumb, the more work is done at the factory, the higher the final quality and the most money and time you can save for the works on the construction site.

Here is an overview of the different types of construction technologies and degrees of prefabrication.

3.1. Pre-cut

Pre-cut is the most basic kind of prefabrication.
Instead of cutting timber on the site, carpenters buy beams that are already cut to measure and all they have to do is assemble those parts in frames.

This method saves some time and some material and it is fairly cheap concerning transport costs.
However, the quality of the build still depends on the skill of the on-site carpenters and the overall construction time of the house is not reduced much compared to a traditional on-site stick-built.
The quality is the same of a traditional on-site stick-built.

This solution can be used when the site is difficult to access or when the builder has to keep its team of carpenter busy with some work.

3.2. Timber-frame

Pre-assembled timber frames are a viable solution for a faster build.
This system is widely used in UK and other Countries.
After pre-cutting parts, the factory also assembles them into frames, delivering at the site entire section of walls, roofs, ceilings.

Compared to pre-cut, buying ready-made frames is more expensive and it comes with these additional costs:

• more work at factory, hence higher purchase price;
• higher transport cost (move volume, you need more trucks);
• higher handling cost on site (you need now a small crane).

On the bright side, several days or weeks are saved on site as the skeleton of the entire house can be built in a matter of a few days.

At this point, carpenters on-site are going to need a crane to move the frames and install them but they will save lots of time (days!) because they do not to have to assemble the frames manually. 

The quality of the build is comparable with a traditional on-site stick-built. 

3.3. Element (or panelized)

This system offers the best value for the money.
Not only the frames are factory-built, also insulation is fitted at the factory, together with external cladding, windows and sometimes even electric pipes and internal gypsum boards.

Some factories are able to deliver element walls, roofs, ceilings which are 80% finished in the factory!

Compared to on-site traditional building methods, this saves weeks and it comes with a  better quality.
In fact, all the materials are handled and fitted in a dry and controlled environment and there is no space left for last-minute improvisation (typical of on-site carpenter's work).

When you buy a prefab element house, you get exactly what you ask for.
Building with elements is smarter than building with frames.

Transport and handling costs are nearly the same while the work on-site is drastically reduced and the quality enormously increased.

Once elements are on-site, a two-story house can be assembled in a matter of days and made weatherproof in max 2 weeks.
Additional time (a few weeks) will be necessary to install technical systems and perform interior works and finishes. 

Almost any architectural solution can be developed using prefab elements.
If your house has a "weird" geometry, elements are the way to go.

3.4. CLT (Cross Laminated Timber)

This construction technology provides massive walls.
Elements can be built using CLT, therefore building with CLT offers pretty much the same benefit of building with prefab timber-framed elements. However, CLT itself is more expensive than timber-frames... so keep an eye on the cost.

In general, designing a CLT structure is faster (and cheaper) than designing the same structure for timber-frame technology.

However, the savings in design usually do not make up for the increase of cost in materials.

CLT offers better structural performance, therefore, it is to be preferred in case there are heavier loads or environmental construction (tall buildings, seismic activity, ...).

While in timber-framed walls the insulation is installed into the frames, in CLT wall it has to go on top of the CLT surface. This results in thicker walls.
Finally, for the same wall thickness, the timber-framed wall will always offer a better energy performance.

3.5. Modular

We covered modular construction in this article. 
For the purpose of this analysis suffices to say that modular construction delivers on-site fully ready "boxes" (ready from outside and inside). On-site work is reduced to a minimum.
Yet, depending on the architecture of the building, some works have still to be performed after the installation of the modules.

NOTE: modules are always built using prefab elements or frames.

Building with modules limits the freedom when it comes to architectural solutions. 
Modules take more time (and money) to be designed and more time to be produced.
Of course, time is saved on-site but the overall length of the project is comparable with element construction.

In general, one should go for modules in case of very large projects (apartment buildings with repetitive architectural patterns) or in the case when time on-site is an issue (i.e demolishing existing house to replace it with a new one).

4. The Building Envelope

When buying your own house from a factory, it is extremely important to understand which are the main components of the building.
If you are not familiar with the various parts of the house, you risk buying something that does not work for you or, worse, leaving our some important part (i.e. buy a house without a roof!).

By definition, the building envelope is the shell of the building that separates the indoor space from the outdoor space. The construction of the building envelope is very important because the structural stability of the house and its energy performance depend on it.

You want to put extra attention on choosing good components for the building envelope. You do not want to be "cheap" here.

The Building envelope is composed of the following components:

• external walls;
• roof;
• foundations.

There are other components that go into the house but they are not as important as the components that build up the building envelope.

Here is a list of additional components (not covered by this article):

• internal walls;
• separation walls;
• ceilings.

NOTE: the three components above MUST be included in the delivery set of the house you buy from the manufacturer (unless you have very specific plans fo build them on-site).

4.1. Wall Types

Irrespective if their structural or functional purpose, elements are made by "layers".
When it comes to layers, external walls are the most "complex" element in the entire building. An external wall can count over 10 layers.

Like any other component of the building envelope, the primary functions of these elements are:

• providing structural stability;
• providing protection from the weather;
• providing good energy performance;
• keeping the air inside from leaving the building and air outside from entering uncontrolled.

To serve all these functions, the typical layer structure of an external wall is (from the inside):

1.  13mm interior gypsum boards;
2.  10mm moisture resistant chipboard;
3.  45mm wooden service-frame, fitted with 50mm insulation and electricity pipes;
4.  vapor control layer (plastic film or membrane);
5.  195-245mm structural timber-frame, fitted with insulation;
6.  9mm wind-protection boards;
7.  wind-barrier (membrane);
8.  28mm wooden vertical battens;
9.  horizontal wooden cladding.

An external wall built to these specs ensures superior performance and durability. Sizes can vary depending on manufacturers specs but the composition of the wall shall be similar to this one.

Let's see in detail how every layer plays an important role in the construction of the building component.

Layer (a)
The interior of the wall can be gypsum or another material. Some prefer wooden boards, others prefer more modern materials.

Keep in mind that using gypsum boards allow getting the walls closed at the factory while using other materials might force the producer to deliver open walls (i.e. interior wooden boarding has to be installed on-site). This could generate extra costs on-site.

At the same time, you shall take into account that gypsum shall be rendered and painted while interior wooden boarding does not need any treatment.
You have to do the math yourself. Producers will not go into that kind of detail.

Layer (b)
Not all producer use this layer but good ones do.
The chipboard provides structural stability to the element and makes the wall surface very robust.

A wall with this construction cannot be broken by just smashing into it. If your walls do not have the chipboard layer,  the interior surface can easily break.

On top of that, you can easily screw accessories on the walls (shelves, cabinets, ...).
the benefits provided by this layer are enormous and it really does not make any sense to omit it.

Layer (c)
This layer is usually omitted in any cheap constructions.
To make it very simple: do not buy a wall that does not have this layer!

The service frame allows pipes to be laid inside the interior space of the house, effectively reducing the risk of air leaks which always happen when pipes penetrate the vapor barrier (d).
When a service frame is used, the layer (d) is never compromised.

The service frame also provides 50mm of extra space for insulation, enhancing energy performance.

NOTE: never accept a service frame thicker than 45-50mm. Thicker frames would offset condensation point increasing the risk of mold forming into the walls.

The quality of the insulation in this layer is also important.
Since this layer is "inside the house" (see explanation in the next paragraph) it is better to use an insulation that does not contain particles or formaldehyde.
Do your homework and ask your manufacturers.

Layer (d)
The vapor barrier is the boundary between the inside of the house and the outside. It shall be completely airtight and the manufacturer should be able to explain how they make it air-tight. Failing to do that means that probably they cannot provide full air-tightness.

Air-tightness is important for energy reasons, for indoor comfort and to avoid the formation of mold inside the walls.Leaking vapor barrier will cause big problems within a few years. 
GET THIS RIGHT!

Layer (e)
This is the "core" of the wall and every manufacturer offer this more or less correctly.
When it comes to this layer you want to go as wide as you can.
I would recommend 245mm walls for increased energy performance, sound protection, indoor comfort.

The quality of the insulation is also important.
Here you want to go for the better energy performing insulation you can afford. Rock wool is a great type of insulation for this purpose.

Layer (f-g)
Depending on the Country you build in, you might need to have (f) or (g) ...or both.
Make sure your manufacturer is informed of the standards and requirements set in your area.
Ask your Architect to support the manufacturer when it comes to checking National Norms and local requirements.

Layer (h)
The "core" of the wall usually end with this layer.
Vertical wooden battens provide a space for ventilation and also seal the wind-barrier, giving a robust finish to the wall element.

4.2. Facade Types

The layer (i) deserved to be treated separately since the exterior finish of the house can be made out of different materials, installed in different ways.

Examples of facade materials are:

• wood cladding or boards
• metal cladding or boards 
• plastic cladding or boards 
• concrete boards
• membranes

For all the types of cladding listed above, there are several different profiles you can choose from. This results in hundreds of different possibilities!

Note that some manufacturers will complete the facade only if the exterior finish material is wood and they will leave to the Client (you) the duty to finish the facade on-site if the material used is not supplied by them.

Manufacturers do this to avoid taking the responsibility to install a material they are not familiar with.

In general, the more "exotic" is the material you chose, the more project management work you will have to do to get it supplied and installed.

When choosing metal or plastic cladding or boards, the only variables to define are profiles shape and color.
When choosing wood, you will also have to define the type of treatment.

Available options for wood are:

• natural (untreated)
• stained
• painted
• impregnated 

Each option has a different price and you should be very clear when specifying the solution you want.

To avoid misunderstandings and to get exactly what you want, it is recommended to include in your price request one or more photos of similar facades.
You can find these images on the web while browsing for terms like "facade cladding", "house facade", ...

Note that some types of materials can only be installed on-site. 
Keep in mind that any work executed on-site will cost you more money.

Usually, the cheapest option for a facade is stained/painted horizontal wooden cladding.
If the price is an issue, ask your manufacturer to suggest the solution for which they can make the best price. 

4.3. Roof Types

The roof is the most complex structural component of the house.
Roofs can be divided into different categories based on their shape, energy performance, construction.

Roof Shapes
The shape of the roof can be:

This page gives an overview of the most common types of roofs.
Keep in mind that the most complex is the roof, the higher its price.

Energy Performance
Some building have cold attics and others have the living space that extends up to the highest ceiling.
In a building where the attic is cold, insulation is placed right on top of the ceiling of the last rooms and the roof does not need to be insulated.
In a building where the rooms go all the way up to the roof, the roof itself needs to be insulated.

Understanding where the heated space ends in your building is crucial and you must be very clear on this with your Architect and with the Manufacturer.

Roof Construction
Finally, roofs can be built with elements or with trusses, or any combination or both.
Generally, the shape of the roof determines if the construction can be in elements or not. As a rule of thumb, the most you can build in elements the better (you want to build as much as possible in the factory).

Keep in mind that there is no sense in making elements without insulation, therefore - if you have a cold attic - you will go for roof trusses.

NOTE: if you are not planning to use the cold attic, you might want to consider changing the concept of the house and use the full height of the building (rooms height up to the roof). This will allow you to build the roof with elements, making it perhaps cheaper. Keep in mind that building with elements still depends on the shape of the roof.

As you can see, the complexity of the roof demands special attention to detail. Expect the roof construction to be a topic of discussion with the Architect/Manufacturer. 

4.4. Foundation Types

For what concerns prefabricated wooden houses, there are two types of foundations:

• concrete slab (on-site)
• wooden element slab (provided by the Manufacturer)

In both cases, the key concept to keep in mind is that the energy performance of the foundation should be the same (or better) that the energy performance of the roof.
Many make the mistake of thinking the foundation can be plain concrete. Do not make this mistake.

If you are not able to provide a properly insulated concrete slab, ask the manufacturer to provide a wooden element slab.
This solution is the best in terms of Energy performance but it will lift the construction of about 50-80 cm... so you have to consider this carefully if you have height restrictions on your project.

4.5. Windows and Doors

On top of walls, roof and foundation there are several other components in the house.
The most important ones are windows and external doors.

Windows and external doors are important because they are part of the building envelope. Special attention must be made to their quality and energy performance.

Windows and doors can be made out of three different materials:

• wood
• PVC
• aluminum

The preference for one material or another depends mainly on location and budget.

Wood is probably the most used material for windows and it comes in a wide range of prices and energy performance. 

PVC is the cheapest solution and it offers great Energy performance. However, you should perhaps consider wood or aluminum if you live in a Country where the solar irradiation is high (UV light tends to age the PVC faster).

The use of aluminum is not very common since it is more expensive (for the same energy performance).

Windows can be double-glazed or triple-glazed. Given the small difference in price, it is warmly recommended to use only triple-glazed windows (better Energy an performance).

As any component of the house, windows can have different colors. Note that the color of the interior of the window can be different from the exterior (for an extra price).

Be prepared to discuss extensively windows and doors with your Manufacturer.

5. Technical Systems

A house is not just an empty shell. In order to be a comfortable place to live, the building needs several technical systems to be installed.
Here is the list of the most important ones:

• water & sewer
• electricity & data
• ventilation
• heating

In prefabricated houses, all these systems must be planned with care BEFORE the house is produced.  Be prepared to discuss the systems with your Manufacturer... in detail!

In general, if the house comes in modules, all the systems are installed in the factory. 

If the house comes in elements, the only system that can be installed at the factory is the electricity & data. In most cases, the Manufacturer will install only the plastic pipes and leave the installation of cables to a licensed electrician, on-site.

All new houses for all-year residential use have mechanical ventilation.
This system requires good and careful planning since it occupies a considerable volume. All the interference between the ventilation system and the structure of the building (beams, walls, ...) shall be analyzed and optimized.
Good manufacturers will propose you to install in the factories those pipes that go through the vapor barrier of walls and roof elements. All the rest shall be installed on site.

NOTE: the manufacturer shall always document and explain how he plans to solve the air-tightness for systems that go through the vapor barrier. 

Water & sewer and heating are always installed on-site (unless modular house). In any case, these systems should be planned in advance as well.

6. Other Components 

When buying a prefab house other components have to be planned carefully.
Although they might not be supplied by the Manufactured, at least their size should be taken into account during design.

The more important additional components are:

• floors (tiles, parquet, ...)
• internal doors
• stairs
• bathroomware
• kitchen

Some manufacturers are able to offer complete solutions and supply all those components. Others prefer not to.
Please note that the amount of components supplied is not indicative of the quality of the service or the quality of the build. In fact, some average Manufacturers try to up their game by offering more services/goods while some very good ones focus only on what they do best: the prefabrication of the house structure.

7. The Process

Driving is a lot easier when you know the road.
Knowing all the important stops along the way helps to put together a good planning and to achieve excellent results, within the available budget and time-frame.

7.1. Project Management

There are a lot of moving parts in a construction project.
Building a house is a process that spans over a couple of years and it involves dozens of people and several companies.
If you plan to buy a prefab house you will have to deal with a lot of technical matter and tons of tiny details. This might need lots of your time.

Construction projects require lots of Project Management. Building with prefabs requires even more. You have two options:

1) be prepared to spend hours with good educational material and get yourself educated on how to manage the project and the details of construction. Once that is done, you work the extra time necessary to keep things running smoothly... every day until the house is finished.
Many go this way and end up becoming professional Project Managers after the house is completed. 
Yes, building a prefab home might change your life :)

2) hire a Project Manager that will handle the Project on your behalf. This is the easier way to go, obviously more expensive. 
A good choice for Project Manager could be your Architect... if he/she has the skills and experience to do the job.
Please keep in mind that Project Management is a hands-on job and many Architects are just not a good fit for it.

Whichever your choice is, be prepared to handle the details for the project and be prepared to answer the questions (the Manufacturer will have many).

7.2. Architectural Design

One of the first steps to get things right is to get a good Architect on-board (more about this at point 8).

You shall discuss at length with the Architect to make clear all your needs and wishes. The Architect shall then compile a preliminary project that satisfies your request and complies with National Norms and local regulations.

Make sure you pay special attention to tricky things such as fire and sound requirements... remember: you are building a wooden house.

7.3. Price Offer

Once your design is ready, you shall contact a few Manufacturers and ask for a price offer.
Make sure you give them exact specifications for what you need and what they should include in terms of delivery and services.

The Price Offer
Often the offers compiled by different Manufacturer are hard to compare because they do not include the very same things. It is important that you understand and verify the content of the offer BEFORE making any comparison.

If something seems missing, ask for it explicitly. Never assume something is "in the price" if not explicitly written.

Price offers are highly technical and it is understandable you have troubles in their interpretation.
In case you need, we can help you to figure out if the offers are comparable to and which is the best one.

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Taking a decision should not take too long. 
If you have troubles deciding, you are probably evaluating the wrong metrics. We can help you set the course right... just drop us an email (link above).

The Contract

You should not finalize the decision before having a look at the Contract. 
for the same price, contract conditions might be very different... so ask for a draft or sample Contract.

From the response of the Manufacturer you will immediately be able to notice a few important things:

• how efficient are they when it comes to paperwork?
• how quick are they in dealing with formal issues?
• do they have procedures in place to handle this kind of request?

A Manufacturer that is able to provide a draft (or sample) Contract quickly proves to be properly organized and trustworthy.
Manufacturers that cannot satisfy this request are probably disorganized and stretching out on their capabilities.

The terms of Contract must be convenient and fair for both parties.
If you need a Third Party independent evaluation of the Contract Terms, feel free to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

7.4. Engineering Design

Engineering Design is a very important part of the process to build a prefab wooden house.
During this phase, all the details of the building are formalized and represented on paper.

Usually, the Client (you) is asked to approve every detail, to make sure the Manufacturer will produce exactly what is required.
Details like colors and position and layout of technical systems are defined in this phase.

Before signing any drawing make sure you get the technical opinion of your Architect or Engineer.

If something does not look right on paper, do not accept it.
If something seems missing, ask for it explicitly. Never assume something is "in the price" if not explicitly written.

7.5. Production

Thanks to the incredible level of detail of the Engineering Design, Production goes very quickly. An entire house is often manufactured in less than one week.

Terms of payment are often linked to the date of start or Production, so make sure you get that right in your planning.

The Contract to be signed with the Manufacturer shall state clearly the scheduled Production date.

7.6. Delivery

The Manufacturer usually takes care of delivering the house to your construction site.
Generally, delivery is made by trucks.
You are responsible to make sure the trucks can reach your site... so ask the Manufacturer all the info you need to assess that the truck can get to destination (the last stretch of road to your property could be the problem).

7.7. Assembly

Assembly of a two-story house takes usually less than 5 working days. In the following couple of weeks, the house will be made weather-tight.

Generally, the Manufacturer is able to complete the Works on-site in less than one month. After that, you can proceed to the interior finish. 

In most cases you will be asked to provide:

• a crane to move the elements/modules
• scaffolding for the building (including installation)
• accommodation for the workers of the Manufacturer (usually 4 or more men)

The Contract to be signed with the Manufacturer (or the Offer) shall state clearly:

• which materials are supplied and installed
• which materials  are supplied but not installed
• which materials are neither supplied nor installed
• how many crane days are foreseen for the assembly
• how many working days (total) are foreseen for the assembly

The Manufacturer shall be able to finish the Works within the estimated time.

7.8. Interior Finishing

Unless you buy a "turn-key" house, all the interior works are on you.
You shall find and contract all the Suppliers and Service Providers necessary to complete the house.

Example of interior works, services, materials are:

• interior doors
• floors and tiles
• stairs
• bathrooms
• kitchen
• electricity & data
• heating
• ventilation
• water & sewer
• ...

The Contract to be signed with the Manufacturer (or the Offer) shall state clearly which materials and Services are supplied by the Manufacturer.

7.9. Guarantee

Last but not least, which are the conditions of Guarantee?
Note that the Manufacturer is a supplier and it shall not be confused with a General Contractor.
In many Countries, General Contractors and Real Estate Developers shall give 10 years Guarantee on the houses they sell.
However, Manufacturers cannot are responsible only for the structure of the house and they cannot take responsibility for all the other works and systems.

You shall clarify who is responsible for what and how these responsibilities are assessed in case of need.

All the conditions of Guarantee shall be detailed in the Contract to be signed with the Manufacturer.

8. The Architect

Although you can start planning the house with your own sketch, sooner or later you have to involve a good Architect.
There are multiple reasons why you need an Architect, preferably someone who has experience with building prefab wooden houses.

Here a list of a few reasons that make the Architect so important:

• someone has to deal with building permits and paperwork
• someone has to guide you through what you can do and what you cannot do (architecturally speaking)
• Manufacturers take more seriously those projects with good architectural drawings, hence your chance of getting a complete price offer is higher if you involve an Architect
• the Architect can help you to evaluate and comment the design work of the Manufacturer
• the Architect can handle for you  the relationship with the Manufacturer
• believe it or not, there are not many Architects capable of designing a house ready for manufacturing. Manufacturers appreciate projects that are optimized for factory production and they will treat yours with priority if the design is good. 

Given the reasons above, it makes sense to choose the Architect at a very early stage.

In any case, DO NOT:

• ask the Manufacturer to propose a floor plan for you. The Manufacturer does not know the ins and outs of the requirements set by your Municipality. Only a local Architect can design the house correctly.
• ask the Manufacturer to price multiple variations of the same project. Your Architect should be able to guide you through the selection of components and solutions, providing a ballpark estimate of what is cheaper and what is more expensive. Manufacturers are busy. Ask them to price only the version you really intend to build.

9. The Manufacturer

Choosing the Manufacturer for the production of your house is perhaps the bigger step you have to take in the entire process.

Do not postpone this decision: it pays off to choose a Producer at an early stage.

Many drag this decision far too long and end up rushing the design a product to meet the deadlines of their project schedule. This is a very bad way to build your home (or any building).

What drives people to procrastinate on this decision is usually the price. They fear to pick a Manufacturer that is too expensive and they fear to miss out on "the best price".

Here are a few things to consider, to help you see that the price of the house set does not matter that much:

• the cost of the house set (building envelope delivered and installed on your site) is usually 30-40% of the entire cost of the project. If the Manufacturer you pick has a price even 15% higher than others, the final impact on the total cost will be in the order of +5%, at most.
• unforeseen on-site due to lack of preparation/logistic can cost thousands EUR. A good manufacturer can help you with planning and this can easily justify a higher price (and cover for that 5% above).
• in a construction project, communication is the most important thing you should look at. You should always try to pick the Manufacturer with the Team you "feel" a connection with. It is important to focus on the Project Management Team and not on the Sales Team. 

On top of excellent communication make sure your Manufacturer does:

• use ONLY materials and components that are CE marked (failure to do so indicates poor standards and willingness to cut on quality in favor of profit)
• have ISO certifications (at least 9001)
• have a good degree of automation in the factory. At the very least they should have a fully automated cutting. A Manufacturer that does not implement automation cannot be competitive on the price and you can expect shortcomings in several areas. On the other hand, a Manufacturer who investManufacturersy automated system is in for the long game and it can be trusted as "serious business"
• have some references for similar buildings (it does not have to be in your area or in your Country). A serious Manufacturer should always be able to provide good references for previous works.
• have a plan to make your house airtight. This is one of the biggest challenges and asking this question can show you the technical skill of the Manufacturers' Team.

10. Getting Started

Overwhelmed?
No need. A journey of a thousand mile begins with one step.

Here a short roadmap so you do not get lost:

1. get your sketch done (SketchUp is great for this) or put your requirements and need on paper.
2. get a good Architect
3. figure out the details of the building (which kind of windows, which kind of facade, which kind of roof, ...)
4. ask for at least 3 price offers
5. interview the Project Management Teams
6. pick your Manufacturer (not based on price only!!!)

I'd also recommend you get in touch with us... we might be able to support you.

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Getting in touch with like-minded people and know about their experiences is a great way to start the journey of building your new home.